My big, fat (constantly revised) guide for if you find yourself in Seoul, South Korea
After living the student life in Seoul for over 10 months I, of course, spent a lot of time out and about exploring the city. Seoul is one of the biggest and most exciting places I've had the pleasure to visit and to live there for so long was an indescribable experience. I now write this post almost two years after moving home, having revisited the city once in that time for a week of solo travel.
I spent a great deal of time revising this list because quite frankly, I wanted to recommend EVERYWHERE I could think of. Although it is still quite a long list of recommendations, and it includes a lot of general areas as well as specific sites, I think I've manufactured an ideal guide for your time in Seoul that's adaptable to suit your interests. If you're not in the city for long I recommend you have a quick search of where some of these places are in relation to where you're staying and try to hone your own itinerary that encompasses a mix of all the wonderful experiences Seoul has to offer.
There's no particular order to my recommendations, but the ‘must-do activities’ at the end you really should try at least once.
1. Dongmyo Flea Market
Dongmyo Flea Market is possibly one of the craziest places I've been. With hundreds of street sellers, each with their own piles of clothes, antiques and all sorts of other items, you'll wish you'd brought a larger suitcase.
Now because of the sheer size of Dongmyo, if you're looking for actual bargains and future-prized possessions you need to be in the mood to rummage. Whilst there are also so many great vintage shops with easy rack viewing, the extra-large piles of clothes out in the open air are where you'll strike a bargain.
The prices at Dongmyo are insane. In fact, if you head there for 5pm, as the stalls remain open for their final hour, the items piled high halve in price (often to 1000 won, the equivalent of around 60p). However if you want to just experience all that Dongmyo has to offer and are not on a mission to thrift, I'd suggest getting there for around 2pm to wander around and explore.
One key thing to remember is: if you're heading there on a weekend or in the height of summer, be brave. The crowds can be crazy and you just might have to fight a Korean grandma for the pair of jeans you dug from the bottom of a pile.
2. Lotte Tower
The Lotte Tower is the tallest in South Korea, and the sixth tallest tower in the world. Now it may seem like a tourist trap, to buy a ticket into the sky and then be sucked into gift shops, but once you're up in that elevator and the view is revealed, it's honestly incredible.
We timed our trip up the Lotte tower around an hour before sunset, something I highly recommend doing. Being able to see the gradual switch from a day-time Seoul, to the neon night-life with an orange sunset in between was magical (I swear I'm not over-exaggerating). The only thing you must make sure of is that it's a clear day, because if you reach the top and are simply staring into the clouds, it might not be so cool.
3. Namsan Tower
Now you might think that Namsan Tower will be just the same as your Lotte experience; it's not. The tower in itself is a (potentially ugly) telecoms structure but the view from the top is just as amazing, and so different to that of the Lotte Tower.
But, this isn't all it has to offer. In fact, the first three times I went to Namsan, I didn't even pay to go up to the top. If you fancy some exercise, the hike up from the streets of Myeongdong, or from the National Theatre has just as beautiful scenery. You also don't need to hike and can instead take the cable car instead - it just might be a little cramped.
Once at the top, the complex does host a few places to eat and a little gift shop, but the main attraction (other than to head up the tower) is the love-lock platform. Bring your locks and solidify your love for family, friends and other loved ones. Watching the sunset from this spot really is something to remember.
PS. Doing the hike up during autumn, surrounded by the oranges and reds of falling leaves was a highlight of my Seoul experience.
4. Explore Anguk
The whole area of Anguk had to be its own recommendation simply because there's so much you can do and see within a day there.
Firstly though, you must go to Onion Café. It's one of my faves but unfortunately is many other peoples' too, so you may find yourself in a queue to enter depending on what time you're there. But queue you must; this café is in the most gorgeous Hanok building so you should try sit in at least once. If you go back again a second time though, I'll allow you to take away.
Whilst some people try to claim that Onion is overrated, I strongly (!!) disagree and it's all because of the white chocolate and matcha rock cake that I accidently tried one time and now think about in my dreams regularly. This rock cake, in all honesty, looks like one of the least appealing things on offer at Onion and yet it's the best thing I've ever tasted. If I haven’t sold that well enough to you though, every other of the gorgeously hand crafted cakes and savoury snacks are aesthetically appealing and delicious too so there has to be something for every visitor to enjoy. Even the coffee gets a seal of approval.
After breakfast at Onion, I recommend you do the most common of Korea’s tourism activities - hire tradition Hanbok dress and frolic around a palace. The Anguk area if full of rental shops for gorgeous Hanboks of all colours and styles, available for as cheap or expensive as you desire. Once dressed up, I suggest you head to Changdeokgung Palace Complex which includes some of the most stunning structures from the Joseon Dynasty and, in the summer months, the chance to enter the Secret Garden.
My final recommendation for your time in Anguk, although I’m sure you’ll find even more to do, is to visit the Arario Museum. This contemporary art collection finds itself in a maze-like building that might make you feel just as uncomfortable as some of the exhibitions. But it truly is an incredible opportunity to see the work of global artists like Tracey Emin and Keith Haring, as well as Korean talent like Hyung Koo Kang and Nam June Paik.
5. Insadong/Ikseondong
Insadong shopping street and Ikseondong Hanok Village are not the same, but I’ve paired them together because of their close proximity to one another. In fact both are also practically in the Anguk area so you could certainly spend a whole day exploring everything I’ve suggested in points 4 and 5.
Starting with Insadong, this is the place you’ll want to buy most of your souvenirs. The main shopping street really has anything you could want, from Korean pottery and ceramics to plastic souvenirs and novelty t-shirts. You’ll also find handcrafted goods and artisan shops along this street so you really can go home with some incredible finds. Insadong is also home to the Kimchi Museum where you can explore the history of and learn to make lots of different types of kimchi and the Alive Museum, a quirky place to visit with all the family.
Take a 5 minute walk from the bottom of Insadong shopping street and you’ll find Ikseondong Hanok Village. This is a much more quaint area of Seoul that’s made up of traditional Hanok houses turned artisan cafes and Instagram spots. Here you’ll also want to shop for cute jewellery, clothing and hair accessories if that’s your style, or you can also spend hours in arcades or in an axe-throwing session. There really is so much to do, see, eat and drink, whilst enjoying the beauty of traditional Hanok spaces.
6. Seongsu
Known as the ‘Brooklyn of Seoul', Seongsu is a developed, industrial part of the city that boasts hip cafe’s, regular pop-up events and quite possibly the best dressed people in Korea (and that’s a difficult award to win). You’ll be delighted to know that Seongsu is home to another Onion café, this time an industrial, urban setting but still providing of the same treats as it’s traditional sister in Anguk.
If you decide on heading to Seongsu, I’d recommend doing some research on the pop-up events happening at the time of your visit. You’ll definitely be able to stumble upon these, but if you’re prepared, you might just beat the queues and manage to grab lots of free goodies to take home.
Otherwise, Seongsu is for shopping and cafe hopping. From concept stores, vintage outlets and artisan bakeries, its the kind of place you’ll want to take your best camera and just enjoy a very cool day out.
7. Hongdae
Out in the West of Seoul, you’ll find Hongdae, which really is the life and soul of the city’s night club scene. This is where most people spend their evenings to party and enjoy all sorts of music scenes. The trendy bars of Hongdae are something to experience. From my favourite vinyl bar ‘Suzie Q’s’ to arcade-themed spot ‘La Luz’, your night out can be different every time you visit.
During the day, Hongdae is still just as fun. With hundreds of shops, from Korean boutiques to big-name brands, this is where you’ll be able to spend more of your shopping budget. In fact, you can combine your shopping in and amongst your night club experience because everything in this area stays open LATE. Get yourself in a phototbooth at 3am after scoffing down some street food - they say New York is the city that never sleeps but they’ve clearly never been out in Hongdae.
8. South of the Han (Gangnam/Apujeong/Coex)
Heading south of the Han River was a rarity for me when I was in Seoul, so I’m honestly not clued up on the best places to go. That being said, I have a few recommendations to guide your way as you explore Seoul’s south side.
The first is possibly one of the most famous places on social media- The Coex Mall. What pretty much is a ginormous shopping mall has come to fame because of the Starfield Library smack bang in the middle. The library really is a beautiful photo spot, but honestly…not much more. I don’t imagine studying there comes with a calming backdrop as the place is full of tourists daily.
Just outside the mall, you’ll find another key attraction - the Gangnam Style statue. I genuinely went here four times during my year in Seoul because everybody wanted to visit and get a picture. I don’t want to give too much away but let’s just say get your camera, and your dance moves, ready.
South of the river is also where you will find the luxurious lifestyles of Gangnam-Gu. Within the wealthiest neighbourhood of Apujeong, you really can explore the Gangnam (life)style. From high-end bars and restaurants to glamorous clubbing experiences, Gangnam is where you go if you’re looking for something extra special for your trip to Seoul.
9. Bukhansan
Hiking is many Koreans’ favourite pass time - and there’s plenty of hikes in Seoul to choose from. The most famous and also quite possibly the hardest of which is Bukhansan.
Located in the north of Seoul, Bukhansan National Park has numerous trails and peaks to explore, all differing in difficulty. The highest point, Baegundae Peak truly is a test of strength and endurance but the rewarding views at the top make it something you can be extremely proud to achieve. I genuinely believe that hiking in Bukhansan is a must-do, if you’re physically fit enough - althought you’ll never be as fit as the elderly Korean hikers who tear past you at every part of the ascent.
If Bukhansan sounds a little too much of a challenge, Seoul still has so many more hikes to offer. Have a look into Inwangsan or the City Wall routes for easier, but still stunning, treks.
10. Must do Activities
Finally, there are some things that, when in Korea, you really must try. I’ve got 4 for you.
Karaoke - get yourself to a private karaoke booth or noraebang (노래방) and experience the fun of singing your heart out without the crowds of people watching. Some places you pay for a certain amount of time, others are coin operated (my fave) but most allow you to also order food and beers as you’re singing so you really can make the most of it.
Photo Booths - one thing I noticed during my time in Korea is that there really are photobooths (and by booth I mean an entire, unmanned shop) EVERYWHERE and they’re all stocked up with incredible costumes and accessories. Taking photobooth pictures is not a rarity but a lifestyle in Korea so make sure you’ve got at least one strip of photos to take back home.
Korean BBQ - probably self explanatory. Cook the meats you want, order extra dishes on the side and wash it down with some somaek (소맥) (beer mixed with soju) and eat your heart out. If you really want to indulge, pick an all you can eat BBQ.
Photo Zones - another photography heavy activity for you but Koreans do love to take a picture. So much so that pretty much every café, shopping centre and tourist site is set up to be extremely aesthetically pleasing and often has it’s own ‘photo-zone’. Sometimes you’ll be posing with mascots (living or in statue form) or behind big signs that indicate where you are, so you’ll always have memories of your trip.
And there we go, that’s all for now folks…
This guide, as mentioned in the title, will be revised each time I revisit Seoul and discover more amazing places or each time a memory from my year abroad reappears to remind of somewhere I’ve missed off - so do keep checking back.
I’ll leave you with this: I didn’t know a thing about Seoul or South Korea when I got told I’d be moving there with six months warning and now? Well, it’s one of my favourite places in the world.
If you can make the trip, please do because this country, and this city in particular, will introduce you to things you’ve never seen, eaten or felt before - and that’s an incredible experience.
